Apre A'shura

There are quite a few versions of the history and the events of the hyena feeding of Ashura, so I’ll condense them into one, generic version. Essentially the story goes that there was a famine in Harar and that due to the shortage of food, the hyenas had taken to attacking and eating the people. It became such a problem that the people protested and demanded that something be done to stop the attacks. The town’s saints held a meeting on Mt Hakim and decided that the hyenas should be fed porridge and in return the hyenas should not attack anyone. This was successful and as a result, the truce is celebrated each year at A’shura, when the hyenas are fed porridge with lashings of butter at various shrines in the land around Harar. The other versions have a similar theme to the above: Widespread famine, people being attacked, solution sought, solution found by feeding hyenas porridge.
The actual feeding has a mythological ring to it. People say that after the porridge is laid out for the hyenas, the hyena king comes first to test it. They say that the hyena king is very handsome, very graceful and completely white. Although I have heard from some people that he can be completely black, but either sounds a little incongruous for a hyena. The hyena king tests the porridge by looking for his reflection, and if he can see it, he tries some. If he approves of the porridge he signals to the other hyenas to come and eat the porridge at which point the others come and join in. It’s best if they eat most but not all, as that means it will be a good year with no drought, famine or pestilence, but it’s up to the murid of the shrine to determine exactly the meaning of the leftovers.
As I said, many have tried to film this hyena porridge-eating and all have failed. So we set off from Harar for Aw Nagus (the shrine of Saint Nagus) on Saturday afternoon, full of anticipation but highly sceptical and not expecting to see any hyenas eating porridge. I mean, honestly, hyenas eating porridge? Be serious. But we knew for certain there would be all-night celebrations including dancing drumming and singing zikris, which alone would be worth driving 50kms on unmade roads to see. We arrived around dusk and were shown the compound beside the shrine. There was a room for the men’s business and a room for the women and children (which also contained sheep), a kind of chill-out room and a room for the healing rituals. I went around back to see the women preparing the porridge. It was bubbling away in a big cauldron, with two women stirring it using metre long wooden poles, and a bunch of other women singing and laughing all the while. In the men’s room each of the men had been given a chapter of the Quran to read and they did this until all chapters had been completed. After that, they made supplications and prayed and apparently this was to continue until the hyenas came. In the women and childrens’ room there was drumming and singing and things were a little less earnest.
After a couple of hours, the porridge for the hyenas was carried out in bowls on the top of some young womens’ heads. And if you’ve ever seen an Oromo woman carrying something on her head, you’ll understand how incredibly graceful this procession was. The women took the porridge to a stone slab, set in the ground beside the wall of the shrine and laid out three perfectly circular mounds of porridge, each about 30cm diameter and with a depression in the middle so that they looked like three big white doughnuts. Then some older women took some ghee and poured it in the middle of the porridge so that each had a little pool of butter. After they did this, I went up to the wall beside the shrine and found myself a position which I hoped would be comfortable, as I was expecting to be sitting there for some hours waiting for the hyenas to come, if at all. The organisers had anticipated the potential problems, so there were soldiers at hand who herded the local children together and made them stand in a huddle near the water tank. To the untrained eye it looked for all the world as though the children were about to be executed. Meanwhile, all the adults except myself, a news cameraman, a journalist and a few VIPs had retired to the respective rooms around the compound to sing and pray and entreat the hyenas to come.
About 5 minutes after the porridge had been set down and just as I’d settled in my position at an oblique angle to the slab and about three metres above it, a hyena came out of the bushes and started lapping up the ghee. I was both incredulous and panicked as I hadn’t even switched on my camera, so I sat there fumbling with the buttons, praying that the hyena wouldn’t run off before the camera started up. Luckily the hyena stayed and I filmed most of the action. It lapped up the ghee in each mound and tasted some of the porridge, before moving on to the next. I was looking in my viewfinder, incredulous, that this lone hyena (hereafter referred to as the hyena king) was doing almost exactly what the legend had said. I was also gesticulating madly at the other people who had positioned themselves directly in front of the porridge and who the hyena king kept looking up at, being very skittish. He looked like a hyena about to run away and I was hissing at the journalist to switch off the torch that he was shining on the hyena (they’d been told not to use any lights, I was using infrared) and an insufferable VIP who kept taking photos with a flash. They ignored me so instead I gesticulated to the soldier behind me to shoot them, but he ignored me too. So the hyena king, after having just tested the third mound of porridge, took fright from the lights and disappeared into the bushes. And so began the long wait for the other hyenas to come and eat. We waited for an hour, while more and more people gathered at the wall, and we could see the hyenas about 30 metres from the shrine but refusing to come and eat. They’d found a cow’s rear end that must have been put there to attract them and were far more interested in that, than in three mounds of gheeless porridge. That was when a dog arrived and decided it wanted to be part of the tradition of A’shura and began eating the porridge. A soldier dispatched the dog with a well-aimed stone and it ran off to go and harass the hyenas. Then two men decided to drag the cow’s rear end over to where the porridge was, presumably in the hope that the hyenas would give up the cow in favour of some white, lumpy, buttery stuff. I tasted some porridge myself afterwards and I must say, the cow’s rear end is a more attractive proposition. So after the hyenas had dragged what was left of the cow into the bushes, the murid decided that enough was enough and that the porridge should be ‘read’. He came out and made an examination and then an ox and a sheep were brought out to be slaughtered. This was done under the watchful gaze of the hyenas, just out torch-range, and in front of the dogs who had taken up the task of defending the meat from the hyenas. Most of the meat was taken to the compound to be cooked for the celebrations, while the heads, skins and entrails were put out for the hyenas or the dogs; whoever wanted them the most.
Any hopes of seeing the hyenas gathering to finish off the porridge were abandoned and the people returned to their respective rooms to sing zikris and perform healing rituals and so forth. The mens’ room was full, with about 80 men and boys and there was much chat chewing, singing, dancing and drumming. The drums were big and booming and the sound pushed against one’s chest when they hit them in centre for a bass beat. And the singing was repetitive, but infectious and seemed to me like of a kind of religious football song where there are certain zikris in which you insert the name of the relevant saint. And the murid announced his interpretation of the partly eaten porridge, promising a prosperous year with perhaps one calamity and success for those who had made the trip from Harar. All in all, the atmosphere was amazing and the hyenas were all but forgotten in peoples’ minds. There was one Australian researcher, however, who every now and then went out to check and see if the hyenas had come to eat the porridge. On my second visit to the wall, I could hear them squabbling in the darkness where the porridge was so I switched on my camera in the hope of getting some footage. But these guys were far more skittish than the hyena king and they scarpered each time they heard me near the wall, so as a result I can only claim to have heard, and not seen, them finishing off the porridge. But when I went to look at the stone slab at the side of the shrine below the wall, the porridge was indeed gone.
I am no longer the sceptic I was. The hyena king was not all white, but was also not spotted apart from having a few spots on his knees. Personally, I think hyenas are beautiful, but I’d guess that most people would have concurred that the hyena king was not particularly handsome or graceful either. Yet he did test each of the mounds of porridge, just as the legend says, and he was followed, albeit much later, by the other hyenas who finished the stuff. For me it was the most amazing thing I’ve ever seen and I felt like I was at the interface between reality and mythology. The ceremony happens only once a year, yet the hyena king was ready and waiting for the people to leave so that he could test the porridge. In terms of hyena ecology, it’s a testament to the power of the hyena’s memory; in terms of the beliefs of the people, it’s a testament to the power of prayer; in terms of human-animal relationships it’s an affirmation of a relationship with wild animals based on recognition of the need for co-existence with minimal conflict and I feel so lucky to have been witness to it.
The video of the hyena king is now in high demand. The news crew was unsuccessful using torch light (though they were successful in scaring the hyena away) so really the only video available is the infrared footage that I shot. I can’t hand over the tape to anyone though, because it also has footage of people dancing and singing and making porridge and my ethics approval doesn’t allow me share it. As far as the footage of the hyena king, I’ve been advised to sit on it until it can be decided what to do with it. So sorry about that, and I hope the above description will be enough for now.

Ashura

Tonight is the eve of A’shura, the muslim festival on the 10th day of Muharram. It’s significant here because legend has it that, on this night, the shrines in the hills around Harar play host to hyenas who come to eat porridge served up in a big stone bowl with lashings of butter. That’s not all, though. The murids at the shrines watch the hyenas carefully and based on how much the hyenas eat, make predictions about the fortunes for the coming year. The problem is that there are very few first-hand accounts of the hyenas eating porridge and those who have gone to the shrines and tried to film this porridge-eating have failed. We at Macquarie University, however, are unperturbed by such things as others’ failures or overzealous accountants and so, with much assistance from Nurredin Adem and the good people from the Ministry of Tourism and Sport, we have organised a vehicle and a film crew and are setting off for the Shrine of Aw Nagus tonight to observe, and possibly film, the hyenas partaking of the porridge. We’ve spoken with the man who actually feeds the hyenas the porridge and he is adamant that they come every year. On the night, people pray at the shrine until the hyenas come and when they eventually arrive, they’re quite skittish (which is normal for hyenas) and there can be no bright lights or children shouting and throwing stones. The hyenas eat the porridge and then the people slaughter a bunch of sheep so that the hyenas can follow up the porridge with some tasty meat and entrails. In terms of hyena behaviour this account sounds credible but I and the other Hararis that are coming with me to the shrine are still sceptical. Not so sceptical, though, as to miss a once a year opportunity to see something that could possibly be just legend or could be an intensely memorable connection between people and animals mediated by the peoples’ faith.

Morning at the garbage dump

This is about as close as you can get to making vultures and garbage look attractive. Early in the morning after the hyenas have picked through the town waste, the vultures arrive and scavenge what they can. They also congregate at the hyena feeding places for bits of bone and meat that the hyenas have overlooked. Hooded vultures here are about as common as crows in Australia and when the sun is shining in the heat of the day, they circle over Harar, riding the thermals that push up off of the rooftops. They’re very economical flyers and beautiful to watch.

About Bebe

Several weeks ago, I was told by the hyena man that Bebe is an orphan. Apparently when she was very small and had just been introduced to the hyena feeding place, her mother, Jambo, became sick and died. So I’ve been following Bebe’s behaviour and as far as I can tell, it’s true; Bebe has no mother. I’ve seen her try to suckle once from Funyamure, who was extremely reluctant to oblige and sat on her teats, grumbling (Funyamure grumbles a lot). And I’ve seen her being licked by another juvenile, but other than that, Bebe doesn’t associate with any particular female and I often find her at a distance from the other hyenas.

This is interesting in terms of hyena ecology, because if Bebe was orphaned in a place like Serengeti or Masaai Mara, she would almost certainly have died or been killed. Hyenas in such places have to compete for food at kills and little ones like Bebe rely on their mothers’ protection so that they can get access to food. Where they are unsuccessful at kills they can still suckle and they do so up until they’re about 18 months old. Even if an orphaned hyena was able to survive without their mothers’ help getting food and without suckling, they would still be very vulnerable to attacks by other hyenas so their chances in the wild are very slim.

Yet Bebe is doing extremely well. I hadn’t seen her for several nights after Arafa and the camel feast, and I was worried that she might have fallen ill with whatever it was that killed the camel. Then I spent four days in Dire Dawa, without being able to find out if she was ok, so I was like a worried parent and pretty relieved to see her last night when I went back to see the feeding. She’s put on a lot of weight since last week and her body is noticeably bigger, though her head and nose are still small and still extremely cute.

She’s very clever and has developed strategies that allow her access to food and protection from other hyenas. During the feeding, she’ll stand behind the hyena man, while the other hyenas stand in front of him. And the hyena man knows she’s there so every now and then he turns and calls her name so that she can come close and take some meat. She also stands closer to the tourists than other hyenas so that when food is thrown their way, to bring the hyenas closer for photos, Bebe gets first access. And she also uses proximity to people as a means of protection. If she’s being persecuted by bigger hyenas, she’ll go and lie down close to the house or close to people watching so that she’s left alone by the other hyenas who are not brave enough to come as close. Although Tukwondilli, in one of his mad moments, might do so and I’ve had him come very close to me at the shrine in order to get away from Dibbey in one of her aggressive moods.

Bebe is so trusting that if she’s lying down near me and I make a sudden movement, the other hyenas further away will scatter, but Bebe just lifts her little head to see what’s going on. In fact she lets me come as close as half a metre so long as I talk and reassure her. This just wouldn’t be possible with the other hyenas who are really quite skittish when there’s no food to be had. So Bebe’s survival strategy as an orphan is to associate with humans, which in other parts of Africa would be detrimental, but around here works to her advantage.

Waraba igi harir inta

In the early hours of Saturday morning, at about 3.30 am, I was filming the hyenas at the sports ground near Thewodros Hotel (read dirt covered, open space used for motorbike practice) when a soldier who was watching me shouted ‘look!’ and pointed behind me to where a hyena was sniffing at my camera bag. I made the usual hissing noise to scare the hyena off but it grabbed the bag in its mouth and high-tailed it for the creek. The soldier and I took off after it and we chased it along the creek bed and into some bushland. After following the rustling noises in the pitch dark, I spotted my bag in the torchlight and went to retrieve it. I couldn’t believe it, the bag was empty. The hyena had rifled through my camera bag! We retraced our steps and found the spare batteries and the memory cards but my telephoto lens was missing. I still haven’t found it and unless the hyena has a Sony A1 series video camera, it’s of no use to the him, and I really would like it back.

Arafa

Arafa in Harar must be the hyenas’ favourite time of year. From the great number of sheep that are sacrificed and eaten, come so many skins and bits of entrails that the hyenas can’t consume all of it and much still lies on the streets nearly a week after the celebration. And just to compound things, this year a camel died near the Erer hyenas’ feeding place and the hyena man procured it for the clan. So in one night the hyenas consumed an entire camel as well as several cow’s heads and some sheep and goat remains. They gorged themselves silly and are now visibly fatter and noticeably more placid.

It was also interesting to watch one hyena that was trying to eat the camel’s head. It really seemed to be scared of the head and would tentatively move in, quickly nip at the head and then dash off with its tail between its legs. After doing this several times, it must have been satisfied that the head wouldn’t bite back so it picked it up and ran off with it. You get a pretty good idea of just how strong hyenas are, when you see one running at speed with a camel’s head held high in its mouth. I didn’t have the means to weigh it but it must have been 10kg to 15kg.

Dibbey

Here’s some video of Dibbey in an aggressive mood. Note the grunt and the raised tail, which is a dead giveaway that she’s about to attack. She bites Bebe, which looks pretty violent and actually draws a reaction from me, but in slow motion, you can see that it’s an open mouth bite and not meant to injure. It’s just Dibbey asserting her dominance and Bebe is apparently (and thankfully) unhurt.
In fact I saw more of a reaction from Bebe one time when she jumped to take a piece of food at the same time that a much bigger hyena was coming down with a piece. The bigger hyena’s snout hit Bebe’s with an audible thunk and Bebe was visibly hurt. She shook her head and went away to sit by herself sniffing and licking her nose and it was some time before she plucked up the courage to rejoin the fray. She’s only small and usually finds a place to one side of the rest of the hyenas where the hyena man can single her out and give her bits of meat without too much competition.

Dumpster Party

The easiest way to find hyenas in Harar is to locate one of these big orange dumpsters, and there are plenty of them. I’m sure orange must be the hyenas’ favourite colour because they really love these dumpsters and are not easily persuaded to leave. The benefit for people is that the hyenas eat most of the really bad smelling garbage such as meat scraps and so forth, so that the garbage in Harar smells more earthy and compost-like compared to the rank smell of the garbage in Australia.
Note the dog in the background. The local dogs get incredibly irate at the hyenas and bark like crazy, so much so that you can tell where the hyenas are in town just by listening to where the dogs are barking. The funny thing is that the hyenas seem unfazed by the attention of the dogs and just wander up to where the dogs are, without flinching. In fact I’ve seen one hyena change course and deliberately go across to where a dog was barking madly at another hyena almost as if to incite it.

Shebo

This is Shebo from the Falana clan whose name means ‘snare’ in Orominya. Shebo had the misfortune to be caught in a snare, probably set to kill hyenas but possibly set for other pest animals. If I had the means I guess I could sedate her and remove the wire but I just have no way of doing this so she’s stuck with it. The wire is gradually getting tighter and you can see it’s cutting right into the flesh of her neck and must make life pretty uncomfortable and painful, although hyenas supposedly have a high tolerance for pain.
Snares are a problem across Africa, especially in countries where the taking of bush meat is on the increase and hyenas, being quite curious animals, are especially prone to getting caught in snares. For a number of reasons, hyenas aren’t usually eaten in Africa so when one is caught in a snare it is usually left to its own devices rather than killed and eaten as would be other kinds of animals. But even if they can break the snare free from its anchor point, they’ll be stuck with the tightening wire until the injury becomes too severe and they die.

Tukwondilli

This is a (probably) male from the Erer clan called ‘Tukwondilli’ and he’s been acting a little strange of late. For two nights running, at the feeding, he’s been tremendously excitable, actually bursting through the line of tourists, doing a little lap of the shrine, and then coming back through the line of people from behind. And I must say, it’s pretty unnerving having a hyped up hyena push past you from behind like that.
Not entirely certain why he’s been so hyped lately, but it could well be his male urges as last night he was doing his best to mate with Koti, but without success.

And as a post script, I found out last night that 'Tukwondilli' means, 'To touch it is a sin' in Oromia language. This is kind of intriguing and I wonder how he got the name.

Falana Hyenas

And here's a capture from video of some of the Falana clan lying around in the morning sun at Cactus Rocks. This is their denning site and is absolutely perfect, with a view across the valley to the farms, plenty of little caves to sleep in, and only minutes from the slaughteryards. I should sell real estate. No names for these ones as yet so they're quite enigmatic... but cute.

Red carpet for spotted hyenas

Last night at the hyena feeding was pretty amazing. There were five hyenas and forty-five people, including a busload of dutch tourists heavily armed with cameras and camcorders. The constant camera flashes and the crowd of people prompted one local to comment to me, 'Paparazzi'. And that's exactly what it was like. But the hyenas took it all in their stride and were in amongst the crowd, taking their strips of meat from the hyena man.
This is confusing, because the following night there were only 5 people at the shrine, yet the hyenas were skittish as anything and Bebe was the only one brave enough to feed. I can't quite work out the reason but i think it has something to do with the hyena man changing the seat that he usually sits on, and possibly the changes being made to the drive as part of the new roadworks. It's hard to determine what they see as threatening, though.

This town gets more interesting. There is a boy living here who goes around the streets accompanied by three baboons. One usually rides piggyback on the boy, and the other two hold his hands. It seems people get annoyed by this boy’s baboon friends, as they go into shops and eateries and even chase children. I’ve been told that they pilfer people’s mobile phones and hand them to the boy, who sells them and buys food for them. Not sure if this is true but there were a few people that were quite irate at this band of mischief-makers.

This is Bebe. She seems to be intrigued by the farenji (European) who turns up night after night and she stares at me with those big beautiful eyes of hers.

The dustbowl is an interesting place. Hyenas come and go all night and dogs sit nearby as if keeping an eye on the enemy. There really is antagonism between the two species here and the nights are filled with crazed barking, the sound moving around the town with the movements of the hyenas. At one point a group of six hyenas returned to the dustbowl and it was interesting to see the second hyena turn at the entrance to the dustbowl and watch the remaining hyenas arrive. It seemed to me that it was checking to make sure that they were all returning. Or perhaps it had a cub that it was keeping an eye on. It was also interesting to see a man on his way home from a night out, walking through the dustbowl, passing within 2 metres of a reclining hyena, the man not shifting his direction at all and the hyena not concerned by the man. I was really expecting more of a reaction than that.

In Harar now and went to see the hyena feeding at the shrine outside the wall. Harari hyenas really are beautiful with such a placid look in their eyes and when they look at you, you feel a kind of recognition but also a species gap so wide that understanding seems a long way off. My intrepid fixer, Nabile, introduced me to the hyena man and he agreed to let me sit in on the hyena feeding to learn their names and just observe.

It was interesting to hear a visitor from France commenting that they were cowardly. They certainly had their tails wedged firmly between their legs and were reticent to go up to Yusuf for the scraps. And the hyena man was complaining to the hyenas, saying that they weren’t doing their jobs properly. But considering they had three sets of headlights on them and were surrounded by a dozen strange humans staring intently, and pointing cameras, I thought they were pretty brave.

And if you think that the hyena feeding here is a tourist trap, then I suggest you go to the sportsground (dustbowl) near the Tewodros hotel at 4 in the morning around the time of the call to prayer. You’ll see a butcher, opening his store and a couple of locals arriving. And then twelve or so hyenas will turn up to be fed by these men in the darkness with not a tourist in sight.

Did I say animal ethics would only take a couple of weeks? I just found out I need a permit to study wildlife in Ethiopia and this may take months. I'm sure a few eyebrows will be raised at the Wildlife Conservation Agency, when they get an application from an Australian who wants to study vermin.

Ethics clearance is almost complete, except for animal ethics which will take a couple of weeks. I can't imagine filming urban hyenas will rate highly in terms of disturbance to animal well-being when there are eggheads in white coats growing human ears on the backs of mice. But then my idea of acceptable often differs from other peoples'.
I'm presenting a paper in Newcastle on Wednesday the 15th. I'll be raising questions about how we perceive animals (in this case, hyenas) as entire species rather than individuals or local populations. We often take a god's eye view of the world so that, when we know from censuses that there are still 40,000 hyenas left in the wild, we are less concerned about the threats to local populations. This doesn't address the problems that occur if localised populations of hyenas disappear from ecosystems. The rest of the presentation will consist of me drinking from a bottle of water, and trying to get a video in my powerpoint to work.